What happens when you take a perfectly serviceable, ultimately seaworthy, and older but beloved ship and refit it for the 21st century? Does the ship lose out? Are the details that made it special lost in the refurb? Or do the passengers win?

Royal Caribbean's 17-year-old Sovereign of the Seas, a smaller vessel than most of the lines' others (it's roughly half the size of its Voyager class ships!), was once the largest and most elaborate cruise ship at sea. And in the past few years, it was showing its age, not only in the normal and expected wear and tear of an older ship, but also in its amenities as well. The expectations of the cruising public have changed so much over the past decade or two that what used to be considered top of the line is now regarded as tired and passe.

But, rather than retire the Sovereign or sell it off to a European tour-and-cruise company, Royal Caribbean decided to give the ship a more-than-major facelift, in the process upgrading its public rooms, adding areas that are popular on its more modern ships, and expanding its teen and children's programs.

Indeed, there is no question that the newly reborn Sovereign of the Seas has a whole new look and a young, vibrant attitude. Big verandahs were added to 62 of its cabins; the dark and closed-in buffet area was scooped out and expanded; soft goods were replaced throughout the ship; lounges were rearranged to maximize space; some a la carte food options (Johnny Rockets, Seattle's Best Coffee, Ben and Jerry's Ice Cream) have been provided; and two incredible teen and children's areas have been created.

Sovereign now sails three- and four-day Bahamas itineraries from Royal Caribbean's handsome new port in Cape Canaveral; it is a shining example of what can be accomplished in a successful ship refurbishment.

Most of the cabins on Sovereign are, in a word, tiny. The new fabrics and carpeting can't do anything to make them bigger, but they are clean and new looking, and efficiently designed with great storage spaces and surprisingly roomy bathrooms. Superior oceanview categories are slightly larger than regular oceanview, with more storage options. Each cabin has a small television, newly renovated bath with shower, and two twin beds that can be made into a queen.

Deck 10, where the upper level of accommodations are to be found, has seen the addition of 62 balconies; large, deep, comfortable, with see-through Plexiglas outer railings, and classy cloth mesh lounge chairs. The suites -- owner's, grand, royal and mini -- have been beautified and refinished with marble flooring, granite countertops, new light fixtures, and trendy, elegant carpeting, bedspreads, seating areas, drapes, and bed skirts. All of the suites on this level have bathtubs, large televisions and elaborate storage space.

Caveat: The porcelain bathtubs are lovely, but they are raised about six inches from the floor and are very deep. They are difficult to use for a stand-up shower for those in the six-foot-tall range, and they are really hard to get into and out of -- to bathe or to shower -- for those with hip or knee joint problems.

Sovereign of the Seas has two main dining rooms: Mirage on Deck 4 and Illusions on Deck 3, each with two seatings. Meals are elaborate and well planned, and even on the shorter itinerary, traditional fare like lobster and prime rib is available. The pastry chef is exceptional, preparing desserts that look like works of art.

The buffet (or cafeteria-style) restaurant is located forward on Deck 11. What used to be a closed-in, unappealing space has now been expanded, lightened, heightened, and renamed. The Windjammer Marketplace soars with colorful murals and lighting to the deck above, which is surrounded by Johnny Rockets and Sorrento's Pizza. The food at Windjammers is freshly prepared, with a carving station and additional areas including traditional and deli fare, Asian eats, salads, and desserts. The drink station is also located here, and while we appreciate the coffee, the little peel-packs of "coffee whitener" and the smallish plastic cups left us cold.

Johnny Rockets is a paean to 1950's-style drive-in restaurants, with big juicy burgers and thick malts and shakes. There is a surcharge of $3.95 per person to eat here, and the sodas, malts, and sundaes are served a la carte. Sorrento's Pizza, on the other side of the open area above the Windjammer, has tables that resemble pizza slices and bright-red chairs. There is no charge for this restaurant. Access to these two spots is via a stairway in the Windjammer Marketplace. Wheelchair-bound guests can get to these restaurants via the aft elevator to Deck 12, and have to cross the open deck.

Room service is more elaborate than on most other cruise lines, with hot breakfast items and even a modified dining room menu available to all guests, not just those in suites.

Sovereign of the Seas also offers midnight snacks, but rather than buffet style, they are delivered to the lounges (Boleros, Schooner Bar, Voltage) and casino where you can enjoy them between midnight and 1 a.m.

The new jewel-toned carpeting and upholstery has made a huge difference in spiffing up the public rooms on Sovereign of the Seas. They look vibrant and alive, from the Viking Crown Lounge at the top of the ship to the centrum-area shops, shore excursion desk, and photo gallery.

The best of the refit, though, is the addition of Bolero's, Royal Caribbean's Latin-flavored lounge, which features salsa and merengue, Latin-style jazz, and drink specialties that include mojitos, caipirinhas, and a wide range of tequilas. Just sitting around the dance floor in this lounge is invigorating, with feet automatically tapping to the beat. In fact, I was enjoying my time there so much that I found it hard to go to the Follies Theatre for the headliner, which on that night was Frankie Avalon. Choices! I did manage to go, but returned to Bolero's later when it had turned into a dueling-pianos cabaret. I enjoyed that almost as much as I enjoyed the salsa music and dance.

The Follies Theatre has also been refurbished, and its deep red walls lined with Toulouse Lautrec-style prints, red banquettes, seating areas, and box seats on the upper levels make it thoroughly enjoyable. Line of sight and sound quality are both excellent.

Royal Caribbean has "ramped up" the public spaces and entertainment venues on this ship, with even the names of the rooms indicating hip, hot action. Voltage, a cabaret theatre on Deck Eight, at the aft, is simply gorgeous, with a great stage area, club chairs and tables, bright new fabrics and furnishings.

The Schooner Bar, adjacent to the casino, looks out along the port side of the ship and has a clubby, low-key feel compared to some of the other noisier, more vibrant lounges.

There are several conference rooms and a business centers on Deck 7. Deck 5's central atrium area is home to the ship's shops, which include the usual logo items, duty-free perfumes, liquor and cigarettes, and some other specialty items that are put on display in the middle of the center. There is also a Caribbean-themed shop, a jewelry store, and a Bijoux-Terner $10 store. Adjacent to the shops is Latte'tudes, the coffee shop in partnership with Seattle's Best Coffee, and the ice cream shop featuring Ben and Jerry products; both are available at an a la carte charge.

The Internet center, or Royal Caribbean Online, is located both in the Centrum area on Deck 6 and in the Business Center on Deck 7. There are several packages that can be selected, and wireless is also available for those who have laptops with wireless cards. Hot spots are located in several areas surrounding the centrum but not in the staterooms, nor in, for example, the Crown Viking Lounge.

Smoking is allowed in certain limited sections of most bars, on the outside decks, and in the casino. Cigar smoking is only allowed in the Viking Crown Lounge. No smoking is allowed in any of the restaurants, in the atrium area, or in the Follies Lounge.

There is no self-serve laundry on Sovereign of the Seas.

Picture people stopping dead in their tracks, hanging over the railings in the atrium to listen to the Rosario Strings play a tune so beautiful and so familiar ... yet elusive. I recognized it right away as Shania Twain's "From This Moment," but let's face it: A classical trio that can take a country music ballad and make it sound like Mozart is pretty exceptional.

All of the entertainment on this ship is fabulous, from the silly waiters in Johnny Rockets who -- occasionally and startlingly break into song -- to the elaborate productions in the lovely (and beautifully refurbished) Follies Lounge.

The new production show for the Follies Lounge, "Dancin' Thru The Movies," is elaborate, colorful and joyous. There are occasional headliners in the theatre as well; on my voyage we had Frankie Avalon, who -- with the exception of his graying hair -- looks hardly a day older than he did when he starred in "Beach Blanket Bingo."

The addition of Bolero's, located in the middle of the ship and spanning its width, is brilliant. The Latin-flavored band Tropical Breeze plays close-your-eyes-and-listen jazz tunes and really lights up the joint when it starts playing salsa and merengue to which couples can get up and dance. For those of us who are less light on our feet, the band plays several line-dance songs too, so you can Conga in relative anonymity. Late in the evening it transforms into a dueling-pianos venue, with Dennis and Marcus challenging each other with rock and country tunes.

For quieter fare there's piano entertainment in the Schooner Bar and guitar music in the Viking Crown Lounge.

Caribbean Wave hangs out on the pool deck enhancing the atmosphere with calypso and reggae.

Voltage, the new disco at the aft of the ship hosts rockin' beats most of the time, including "Rock-a-Roake" for those brave enough to take the microphone, and the band Devilicious providing contemporary tunes.

Movies are shown on in-cabin televisions on a rotating basis, but oddly, only one movie is played per day on each of the two movie channels, repeating over and over again. Other television selections include CNN, ESPN, local satellite offerings, and shipboard information including port overviews and shopping.

The large casino has a huge variety of table games, slots, and poker machines.

Royal Caribbean has positioned itself as the cruise line for active lifestyles, and Sovereign is no exception. From the 30-foot-tall rock climbing wall at the aft of the ship to the well-equipped fitness center and spa, opportunities are plentiful for those who want to keep up their regimen of exercise.

The Sovereign Day Spa and Fitness Center, at the aft of Deck 10, offers a wide variety of treatments including massages and facials, and a "dry float" bed that provides hands-off heat and massage therapy in a dark, quiet room. Exercise equipment includes treadmills, stationery bikes, weights, and cardio machines. Pilates, yoga and spinning (indoor cycling) classes are available for a small fee ($5 to $10); aerobics classes are complimentary. The spa itself is newly renovated, with Italian tile flooring and a warm Tuscan look; make reservations early so you can get the treatment you want. A salon is also available for hair and nail treatments.

There are two pools on Deck 11, with two hot tubs between them. There is a walk-around track but no jogging track, and what used to be the sports area with basketball has now been handed over to the teens for their exclusive use.

What could be more enticing to little kids than Crayolas and Fisher-Price toys? Royal Caribbean has teamed with both brands to create an exciting and enriching environment onboard its ships; with the renovated space on Sovereign of the Seas, this will please not only the kids but their parents as well.

The entire aft end of Deck 9 has been turned into Adventure Ocean, the multi-roomed children's area with age appropriate activities for each group. But this isn't just a "drop and leave 'em" environment for youngsters, because parents can stay and play too. And, when it comes to the youngest kids, there aren't that many places where you can take your 6- to 36-month-old and have a music and movement class with the parents of other kids the same age. It's a bonding experience that adds new meaning to "family vacation."

The other aspect of the new children's center, is, of course, its "day camp" experience for kids older than 3. Aquanauts (3 - 5), Explorers (6 - 8) and Voyagers (9 - 11) all have their own areas in which to play and learn. The program is free with the exception of Internet time, which ranges from sending an e-postcard for about 25 cents to using the Internet at 25 cents per minute.

Note: All children must be completely potty-trained; "pull-ups" and swim diapers are not allowed at all.

Pre-teens from age 12 and teenagers through 17 have their own spot on Deck 11, away from most of the crowds. Parents are not allowed. In fact, no adults are allowed except for the counselors that work with the kids. The Living Room is a colorful, cozy spot with seating areas for chatting and sipping sodas. Right behind it is Fuel, the new disco for the teens, complete with a "mocktail" bar and dance floor. And beyond that is the open back deck, once the sports court of the ship but now given over completely to the teens for ping-pong, sunning, and deck parties all their own.

In-room babysitting is available at a charge of about $8 per hour, but requires a request 24 hours in advance at the purser's desk on a first-come first-served basis.

Royal Caribbean's appeal is broad-based, but this ship, with its shorter itineraries and fabulous new areas for kids and teens, will be a magnet for families looking for a fun and active getaway.

Royal Caribbean recommends $3.50 per person, per day to the dining room waiter, the same amount to the cabin steward, and $2 per person, per day to the assistant waiter. A 15 percent gratuity is automatically added to bar tabs and spa services. You still hand out your tips the old fashioned way (though you can charge them to your onboard account and receive "chits" that you personally give to waiter, cabin steward, etc.).

Casual during the day and resort casual in the evenings. There is one formal night per cruise, suits for men are fine, cocktail dresses or all-out sequined gowns for women are acceptable. No shorts, swim suits or tank tops are allowed in any of the dining rooms in the evenings.

• Cruise line - Royal Caribbean
• Ship name - Sovereign of the Seas
• Type of cruise - Casual
• Total cabins - 1140
• Private balcony cabins - 0
• Decks - 14
• Total crew - 840
• Passenger capacity - 2250
• Ship size - Large
• Officers nationality - Norwegian
• Year entered service - 1988
• Registry - Bahamas
• Ship length - 879.9
• Tonnage - 73,192

Copyright 2005, The Independent Traveler, Inc. All rights reserved.