The reincarnation of Empress of the Seas -- see Nordic Empress -- follows that of Monarch of the Seas. The two ships are part of Royal Caribbean's ongoing effort to refurbish its fleet's older ships (rather than transfer them out).

The vessel's public areas received the bulk of the attention: the Windjammer Cafe was updated; the High Society Lounge was replaced by a top-notch, Latin-themed bar, Boleros; the ShipShape Day Spa and Fitness Center was expanded; the main dining room (Carmen) was refreshed with new furnishings, wall sconces, and fabrics; the Strike Up the Band showroom was completely refurbished; and new, exciting additions made their debuts onboard, including Portofino Italian trattoria, and a coffee bar and ice-cream shop.

Empress of the Seas is in a class of its own -- literally. It is the only Royal Caribbean ship that does not belong to a specific family of ships. Prior to boarding, this veteran Voyager-class passenger wondered: Can a simple remake of this stand-alone "classic" create the same level of comfort, range of activities, and options experienced on Royal Caribbean's newer vessels?

Royal Caribbean upholds that Empress, the line's smallest ship, "provides the complete cruising experience in a more intimate environment." And while, yes, the combination of smaller size and amazing amenities aims to invoke the "Get Out There" experience, this ship is still best suited for travelers who prefer the everyday pleasures of cruising. There are no ice rinks, golf simulators, or Johnny Rockets here -- just pleasant views, good food and friendly service.

Empress of the Seas will sail alternating six- and eight-night Bermuda itineraries from the new Cape Liberty cruise port in Bayonne, New Jersey through the fall, then reposition to San Juan to offer three-, four- and nine-night Caribbean cruises.

Empress features only one main dining room, the double-deck Carmen Dining Room. Completely renovated, it is decorated in plush maroon and sea green, with lots of well-polished brass accents, and surrounded on three sides by glass. The beef tenderloin offered during dinner -- cooked medium -- was delicious enough to turn this chicken-fish-vegetarian into a red meat lover. Dinner was formal, but not stuffy, with friendly, attentive, and perhaps even overzealous wait staff -- when one tablemate asked for extra raspberries with her chocolate cake, she was quickly presented with a bowl filled to the brim with ripe fruit. Open seating breakfasts and lunches are also available.

For a multiple-course meal in an intimate setting, visit Royal Caribbean's signature Italian eatery, Portofino. For $20 per person, you'll enjoy dishes featuring fresh ingredients like vine-ripened plum tomatoes, prosciutto, and basil. Reservations are absolutely required. Another neat feature is the fleet-favorite Latte-tudes, serving up Seattle's Best Coffee, and a Ben and a Jerry's ice-cream bar stocked with over a dozen tasty flavors like Chunky Monkey and Phish Food.

The Windjammer Cafe offers breakfast and lunch buffets, as well as a more casual dinner venue for folks who don't want to eat in the main dining room or reservations-required Portofino's. Don't miss the salad bar's incredible variety, from the requisite mixed greens with all the fixings to Greek (the feta cheese was extremely fresh), potato, and Waldorf salads. Hot entrees vary from shrimp scampi to creamy mashed potatoes. Every day, the Windjammer features a carving station, pasta station, Asian station, a selection of fresh breads, a desert bar, and plenty of coffee, juice, and soft drinks. Service here is nothing short of prompt; staff was helpful in offering drink service, and whenever a guest got up to leave (or seek out second helpings), their table was cleared almost immediately. So expect to find seating, even during the lunch rush. Try to snag a table along the windowed perimeter of the room, for the best views.

Room service is available 24 hours a day. The breakfast menu features continental fare, as well as egg dishes. Dining room menu items are available during regular dining room hours; though not offering the full menu, most dishes are available for room service. Late-night snackers can expect limited choices, though service seemed generally prompt.

The Centrum, one of Nordic Empress' most striking public areas, is a major presence on the renovated and renamed Empress of the Seas. Passengers enter the ship through the Centrum. While no match width-wise to the Voyager-class ships' atriums (or traffic-wise, for that matter -- passengers often seemed to be just passing through rather than hanging about), the nine-deck tall space is elegant and beautiful with glass elevators, waterfalls, and sweeping staircases. The Boutiques of The Centrum shopping area, located around The Centrum, sells jewelry, cruise wear, perfume, and plenty of duty-free liquor.

Boleros is easily one of my favorite places on the ship. The Latin-themed lounge on Deck 6 oozes with ethnic charm and dark, earthy colors (you can practically hear "I Love Lucy"'s Ricky Ricardo singing "Babaloo"). The must-try cocktail here is the "mojito," a concoction of top-shelf rum, sugar cane, and fresh sprigs of mint -- sickeningly sweet yet oddly refreshing. The drink menu also features a wide variety of specialty tequilas. The real fun starts after-hours, with live jazz and even dueling pianos; by 1 a.m., the entire crowd was signing along to Billy Joel's "Piano Man."

One of the hottest places to be, no matter what the time of day, seemed to be the new, nautical-themed Schooner Bar, which was always packed (the Schooner bar replaced Nordic Empress' old Carousel Pub.) The only downside: the smell of cigarette smoke (smoking is allowed on the port side of lounges), combined with the signature "tar and gunpowder" scent, is almost as intense as the noise level.

The signature Viking Crown Lounge, perched ten decks above the ocean, is classy and cool in deep blues and electric purples, yet seemed sparsely visited during the day. Still, it's a great place to watch the sunset, and becomes a fairly hopping dance club after dark. A meager Card Room (across from the Crown & Anchor Lounge) is available for gaming enthusiasts looking for a quiet escape from the noisy casino.

Royal Caribbean Online, a computer cluster across from the art gallery, boasts 18 computer stations with 24-hour access to the Internet, and connections to popular sites for updates on stocks, sports, and entertainment. Cruisers can also send e-mail, and e-postcards with personalized photos. Internet access costs 50 cents per minute; digital postcards are 95 cents each.

Before or after you visit Boleros for the aforementioned can't-miss dueling pianos, catch a show at the refurbished Strike Up the Band showroom. The theater feels very Broadway in deep shades of red and cream, seating 722 for comedy shows, as well as events like "Fiesta Caliente" and "Jump Jivin' Swing." All of the seats are plush and cozy with lots of legroom and provide an excellent view, unless you are seated directly behind a structural beam (get there early for a prime spot and bring your own drink -- cocktail service is unusually slow here).

The Casino Royale is open until the wee hours of the morning while sailing, and features one craps table, one three-card poker table, one stud poker table, four blackjack tables, 154 slot machines, a roulette wheel, and an incredible gaming staff. The quarter slots ate a good amount of my money before I decided to call it a night, but the atmosphere was so jovial I had a hard time pulling myself away.

If you want to dance the night away (or at least work off a few calories from dinner), mosey on over to The Viking Crown Lounge, which transforms from a posh lounge-overlooked-by-the-gym into a hopping club scene for night owls. And, as mentioned above, the Schooner Bar is always a lively place to stop by for a nightcap.

During the daytime, Empress of the Seas offers the usual Royal Caribbean activities, such as art auctions, pool games, and contests.

The Sun Deck offers two swimming pools, three whirlpools, a bustling poolside bar, and plenty of space to stretch out and catch some rays. A rock-climbing wall, towering 150 - 200 feet above sea level, is available to passengers at a variety of skill levels.

Stop by the expanded ShipShape Day Spa and Fitness Center, Deck 10 aft, as it truly is one of the most beautiful areas on the ship: bright and airy with top-of-the-line amenities. Treatment rooms are comfortable, many with ocean views, and a couples' massage room has been added. Just under $100 will get you a full-body massage or facial. Salon services run the gamut from shampoos and updos to tips and toes. My hairstylist Stacey took her time with my cut; I walked out feeling like a million bucks -- not bad, considering I only spent about $50. In fact, menu prices were curiously lower on Empress than on Voyager-class ships.

A short flight of stairs takes you up to the fitness area, littered with brand-new, state-of-the-art treadmills, plus an outdoor track; aerobics classes are available. This area is one of the most unique and different on the ship, as it overlooks the Viking Crown Lounge (imagine it as the upper tier in a Broadway theater, with the Viking Crown Lounge the orchestra seats). Still, as unique and different as it is, I am not sure that I could break a sweat while watching my fellow cruisers sipping cocktails in posh couches.

Royal Caribbean's Adventure Ocean program is available onboard Empress of the Seas to varying age groups (3 - 5, 6 - 8, 9 - 11, 12 - 14, 15 - 17). Although the facilities are surprisingly cramped, the staff is well trained (many are certified in CPR), and quick to point out that kids also enjoy planned activities on other parts of the ship, too (for example, line dancing in the Viking Crown Lounge). One neat feature is a slide that snakes across the length of the ceiling -- even parents had a good time climbing up to navigate its twists and turns. The arcade area, though stocked with over a dozen games, is tiny and a tad claustrophobic (the absence of an air-hockey table surprised me most).

Soda fountain and other non-alcoholic drink packages are available for guests up to 18 years of age, starting from as low as $20 for a seven-night cruise.

Royal Caribbean typically appeals to couples and singles in their 30's to 50's, as well as families, and anyone looking for an affordable, active vacation. In the case of Empress of the Seas, the age demographic skews a bit higher if only because some of the most active elements found on Royal Caribbean's newer ships aren't on this one (except for the rock-climbing wall).

Royal Caribbean suggests $3.50 per person, per day for waiter and cabin steward; $2 per person, per day for assistant waiter, and headwaiter at guests' discretion.

Weeklong cruises typically feature two formal nights, one informal night, and four casual nights (theme outfits are encouraged, but seldom seen). Many men don tuxedos for formal dining, though suits are just fine and quite common.

• Cruise line - Royal Caribbean
• Ship name - Nordic Empress
• Type of cruise - Casual
• Total cabins - 814
• Private balcony cabins - 422
• Decks - 7
• Total crew - 671
• Passenger capacity - 1600
• Ship size - Large
• Officers nationality - Norwegian
• Year entered service - 1990
• Registry - Bahamas
• Ship length - 692
• Tonnage - 48,563

Copyright 2005, The Independent Traveler, Inc. All rights reserved.