Writer Lisa Costantino based this independent review on her 10-night Canada/New England cruise departing from Montréal, Québec.

With her prominent beak and rounded lines, Regal Princess glides through the ocean like an aging dolphin: Still sleek and graceful to behold, but within, her vitality and spirit starting to diminish. This “Love Boat” sister ship, built in Italy in 1991 and refurbished in 2000, has architect Renzo Piano (who also designed Paris’s Pompidou Center) to thank for her streamlined exterior. Inside, passengers find a world of quiet colors, genteel public areas, comfortable dining rooms, and serviceable cabins. Random acts of artfulness surprise here and there -- water falling onto twin rock gardens, a brightly painted Italianate mural encircling a quiet nook, and stellar artwork crowning the stairwells.

Why Regal Princess?

• Rest and relaxation: The absence of goofy, alcohol-fueled events and boisterous voices make cruising like an afternoon at grandma’s house: Hanging out, eating sweets, and playing cards. Her longer 10- to 21-night journeys offer even more relaxation time.
• Superb service: Cheerful, professional cabin stewards and wait staff go beyond expectations in their attention to personal preferences and willingness to provide little extras.
• Dining discoveries: Café del Sol adds a little extra to its buffets with at-sea specialty spreads of ethnic savories and sweets; an afternoon, Italian-to-the-core sandwich bar; and a candlelit evening bistro.

Who should go
Cruisers ages 65 and older will love this ship, which emulates the comfort of a nice hotel. Activities require little exertion or challenge and are geared toward leisure and mild-mannered pastimes. Even the food is comfortable rather than exotic or sophisticated; ditto on the entertainment.

Who shouldn’t go
Anyone looking to party down until morning will find his/her hopes deflated. Though Regal advertises dancing, gaming, and bistro dining as “open ‘til the wee hours,” come midnight, just about everyone’s been long abed. Those looking for an adventurous interlude at sea will likely be disappointed.

Heard on the deck: “That man is on his 18th Princess cruise. He has an entire room dedicated to the prizes he’s won on trivia nights.”

Hits and misses

• Don’t miss: The galley tour -- meet the executive chef and maître d’, watch a cooking demo, take home a sheet of recipes, and wander the maze-like galley.
• Best part of the ship: The hidden outside observation deck reaches through the starboard passageway on Baja Deck, and nobody knows about it.
• Best experience: Fantastic itineraries (10-night Canada, 10-night Alaska, 15-night Panama Canal, and more) and generous amounts of time allocated to being in port give passengers to opportunity to really explore, rather than simply observe.
• Best shipboard activities: The bartenders’ demonstrations concentrate on everything from martinis to margaritas; with samples, recipes, and a great deal of showmanship and corny jokes.
• Needs improvement: The smoking policy, which should be outdoors only (and isn’t), creates far too many smoky alcoves. Other shortcomings include no separate room for fitness classes, limited Internet services, and please, popcorn in the cinema!
• Activities to skip: The champagne art auctions -- unless a free glass of bubbly is worth the truly awful paintings up for grabs.

How to meet the captain
There’s a Captain’s Welcome Party on the first formal night, but without a receiving line, you’re more likely to catch a glimpse of, rather than a handshake with, the man at the helm.

Palm Court
Tastefully decorated in soft shades of mauve and teal, this main dining room offers smart comfort. A single expansive floor holds tables for 6, 8, and 10 (a few tables for two are tucked away here and there), with columns and etched-glass partitions breaking up the banquet-room monotony. Fanciful murals and floral glasswork add welcome touches of romance, and the wait staff is charming and efficient. As for the food, it’s the best onboard, serving up reliable entrées such as rainbow trout in dill sauce, spring leg of lamb, crispy duck l’orange, and prime rib au jus. Themed dinners tempt recalcitrant fancy dressers from the buffet, particularly the candlelit and Italian dinners (with pasta cooked close to your table), though international night’s mélange of dishes make for a chaotic palate. Vegetarians will be pleased with their own nightly full-course menu.

Café del Sol buffet
Awash in muted tones and a few tropical wall scenes, the Lido Deck buffet features a lineup of warming trays filled with entrées -- though some on the bland side. A variety of edibles redeem the breakfast menu, including fresh fruit, banana bread, and yogurt, but the eggs and breakfast meats taste a bit mass-produced. Lunch offerings are homogeneous and often without a vegetarian option, though two exceptions are the afternoon sandwich bar, dealing Italian-style sandwiches; and the specialty lunch spreads (Italian and Asian, for example) offered on at-sea days, which are quite satisfying, with a plethora of selections both healthy and calorie-laden.

Café del Sol bistro
The bistro, Regal’s entry into the specialty restaurant venture, is a roped-off section of the buffet. Despite its evening to late night availability, the concept hasn’t quite caught on, yet. The menu changes just once or twice during the course of a cruise, and may include dishes such as chicken Kiev, salmon farfalle pasta topped with caviar, and lamb chop Provençal. Vegetarian options aren’t always offered. Service is attentive, a pianist provides atmosphere, and the only other diners you’re likely to see are the officers and their wives, making it a great spot for an intimate meal for two. Reservations are not required, and there’s no dining fee.

Other dining options

• Bravo Pizzeria: The pizzeria is another venue that passengers seem to miss. The ambience is relaxing and the thin-crust, personal-size pizzas are quite tasty. At dinner, minestrone, Caesar salad, and small plates of pastas join the five kinds of pizza on the menu. Finish with the silky tiramisu.
• Hamburger bar: This outdoor Lido Deck nook grills up hamburgers, chicken burgers, hot dogs, veggie burgers, knockwurst, and brats, all served with fries, coleslaw, and sauerkraut. Good for a hasty bite.
• Room service: The 24-hour menu consists of a handful of sandwiches and salads, and breakfast offerings are of the continental variety only. Most appalling: Appetizers are available (with a six-hour prep time!) only if you dish out, say, $10 for guacamole and tortilla chips. Unless rough seas have left you flattened, don’t bother. The food is better -- and free! -- everywhere else on the ship.

Best dining

• Dish: Fresh Maine lobster at Palm Court’s all-you-can-eat lobster night is a favorite.
• Dessert: Try the bounty of delicacies at the at-sea lunch buffets, Regal’s twist on the midnight sweets smorgasbord.
• Restaurant: Palm Court offers the classic shipboard dining experience.
• Food seminar: The “Princess Grapevine,” a wine-tasting seminar presented by the ship’s maître d’, provides passengers with samples and suggestions for a $7.50 fee.

How to…

• Get a table for two: Intimate seating is limited in Palm Court. Make your request when you book, or ask the maître d’ early and hope for availability. Tables for two are practically guaranteed in the bistro and pizzeria.
• Celebrate a birthday or anniversary: Simply note the occasion when booking online and your cabin will be festooned with balloons. Or buy a celebration package, ranging from $135 for champagne, canapés, breakfast in bed, and a portrait; to $420 for the works, including a visit to the spa. If you want to throw a party, the purser’s desk can arrange invites, refreshments, and service.
• Change seating: No problem, just check with the maître d’, preferably as early as possible. Or call the concierge service line: D.I.N.E.
• Dress for formal night: Play it to the hilt. People on these cruises don’t mess around with simple cocktail dresses or sport coats. Formal nights are a sea of long black gowns and tuxes.
• Dress for casual night: Smart casual is the only alternative to formal in Palm Court, with dresses, skirts or pants, and dressy tops for gals; tailored shirts or sweaters and nice slacks for men. Definitely no jeans.

Heard on the deck: “Oh, my word, I’m so stuffed I feel sick. But let’s go look at dessert.”

Tips:

• Palm Court’s location at the rear of the ship makes dining on rough seas an adventure for some, and an ordeal for the easily queasy. Request a table near the doors if you think you might need to dine and dash.
• Coffee aficionados form a line each morning at La Patisserie, the only location onboard with an espresso machine and by far the best coffee on the ship.
• Crave the tea-and-scones experience? Head to Palm Court in the late afternoon, where teas and coffee accompany pastries and finger sandwiches.
• Wine and champagne bought in port can be imbibed at dinner for a $10 corkage fee. Other alcohol purchases are held until disembarkation. A limited selection of mixed-drink packages is sold for cabin quaffing.
• Soda addict? Pay $25 for unlimited Coca-Cola® in a souvenir tumbler.
• Regal offers an at-sea, in-cabin breakfast for two with pastries, smoked salmon and brioche, crab quiche, fresh fruit, and a half-bottle of French champagne for $25.

Utilitarian but clean, lackluster but comfortable, Regal’s cabins encourage you to spend most of your time enjoying ship soirees rather than stateroom solitude. Ocean views add the illusion of space to the already good-sized 190-square-foot cabins. Cabins with balconies, 134 in all, seem positively roomy. Twin beds, separate or pushed together, provide comfortable repose, though the flat pillows could stand an upgrade. Several large mirrors ensure you’ll see that run in your stocking before formal night, and a pair of modern-art paintings liven the décor. Amenities include an armchair, a cocktail table, nightstands with large lamps, a desk with ample surface and storage space, ample closet space, an in-room safe, a television with CNN and two movie channels, and a telephone. One disappointment was the lack of electrical outlets. Tiny bathrooms include showers with excellent water pressure and two medicine cabinets holding Princess toiletries (soap, shampoo, conditioner, and body lotion). Bathrobes are provided upon request, as is fresh fruit. Nighttime chocolates at turndown are gratis; beverages are not, though there is a handy mini refrigerator for your drinks.

Book a suite and enter a world of bright daylight, furnished balconies, plenty of open space (minisuites are nearly double the size of standard cabins; full suites triple), plush sitting and dressing areas, huge bathrooms with double sinks and separate bath and shower, and special treats from the kitchen. If you can afford it, do it.

Cabins for guests with disabilities
Book early if you require one of Regal’s 10 wheelchair-accessible cabins -- they sell out quickly. The entire ship is wheelchair accessible, and special equipment such as TTD-teletext phones and door-knock sensors are available on request.

Tips:

• Nonsmokers be forewarned: Princess allows smoking in all cabins, an unfortunate policy that can result in some hallways reeking of cigarettes.
• The laundry facilities on two decks become popular hangouts on at-sea days. Using the 10 washers and dryers is free, but it’ll cost you quarters to buy soap and fabric softener. Four irons and boards are also on hand. Laundry service with next-day delivery will set you back $15 a bag.
• Want to brighten up your cabin? Buy a bouquet of flowers from Regal’s fresh flower market on Promenade Deck. You’ll also find corsages and boutonnieres here on formal nights.

Click to view a virtual tour

An understated refinement links the ship from one public area to the next, but it’s never garish, nor overly sophisticated. The stairwells are crowned by original artwork that pleases the eye as much as the auction paintings lining the Plaza Deck alarm the sensibilities. For the most part, there’s not a lot of glamour, but neither is there gaudy gimmickry. Apart from the shows and the casino, shipboard entertainment and activities cater to the hobbyist: Ceramics painting, golf-putting games, line-dancing classes, bridge and mah-jongg, trivia competitions, and, of course, bingo. Other cruisers may want to try the ping-pong tables or shuffleboard courts, while those looking for something more constructive can sign up for basic, well-taught classes in the Computers@Sea lab.

Click to view a virtual tour

Bars, lounges, and casino
The bars on Regal are among the ship’s most charismatic places to linger. Popular for pre-dinner drinks and post-dinner revelry, the Adagio Bar combines a roaring ’20s-style Mise en Scène (complete with high-society murals) with relaxed seating, affable bartenders, and a pianist who moves effortlessly from Cole Porter to pop. The adjacent Bengal Bar attempts to recreate a British colonial-style watering hole but loses it in the very American game show and karaoke entertainment; still, it also gets hopping at night. Murals depicting the Tuscan countryside make the Bacchus Bar worth seeking out -- along with its champagne and sevruga caviar packages, superior wines, free cheese and crackers, and off-the-main-drag locale. The ship’s other bars are more nondescript but also less frequented, and so good for quiet conversation.

Located on the topmost deck, the Dome Casino affords ocean views and a rollicking time (literally) when the seas are high. Larger than many urban card rooms, this lively gambling venue helps cruisers get rid of unwanted money at more than 100 slots, video poker, and other electronic games (including an irritating Wheel of Fortune machine that announces itself every few seconds), or at the 10 or so tables for blackjack, three-card and let it ride poker, roulette, and craps. A bar and a band help ease your losses or cheer your gains.

Heard on the deck (from a bartender): “We get a lot of requests for martinis, shaken, not stirred. Everyone wants to be James Bond.”

Swimming pools
Virtually unused on colder-climate cruises despite toasty water temperatures of 84-88° F, Lido Deck’s back-to-back swimming pools are large enough and deep enough (6 feet) for a dedicated lap swimmer to get a workout. Those looking for the shallow end will find elevated waters above the aft pool’s dolphin waterfall, where submerged chairs provide a novel way to cool off on hot days. The pools are separated by an elevated deck, where twin hot tubs bubble and steam. Soakers can get their cocktails delivered tubside from the tiny Waves Bar. Deck chairs abound, and you’ll find deck towels in your cabin closet. For a more private immersion, try the two tubs located aft of Aloha Deck -- great for a late-night soak.

Shows
At-sea show biz on Regal means the usual big-band salutes, variety acts, stand-up comedians, ’50s-style rock ‘n’ roll revues, and miscellaneous banjo pickers and comedy jugglers. No one event or entertainer stands out, but a surprise hit is the frequent wooden horse races, which serve as audience warm-ups at $2 a bet. The International Show Lounge hasn’t a glitzy bone in its refurbished body, but sight lines are good and the raised stage platform projects the entertainers into the audience. The much-smaller Stage Door hosts dance lessons by day and new moves at night. Crew members head here in the later hours for unwinding and trying a hand in the “you sink it, you drink it” champagne golf putting fun.

Heard on the deck: “Years ago, my father-in-law had his picture taken with two Princess chorus girls. He still keeps it on the mantle in his living room.”

Shore excursions
In-port outings offered through Princess’s Adventures Ashore program fill up quickly -- particularly those geared toward sedentary sightseeing, such as bus and horse-drawn carriage tours. In fact, with this 60+ clientele, the most-strenuous adventures don’t always meet the minimum numbers and may be canceled (as was our kayaking trip in Bar Harbor). Although you’re encouraged to book online or by order form up to 60 days in advance, the ship’s tour office will be happy to sell you an excursion prior to the port day. The office has a convenient sold-out board and order form drop box so you can avoid standing in line. Bookings generally close 24-36 hours before reaching port; once closed, tours are neither refundable nor exchangeable.

Weddings and vow renewals
Getting married at sea by the ship’s captain -- it’s a very romantic notion, and one no longer offered on many cruise lines. Happily, a Princess wedding means the ship’s master himself makes the “husband and wife” proclamation. A number of packages combine your special moment with a honeymoon that may include champagne, portraits, special treats delivered nightly to your cabin, a champagne breakfast in bed, Princess bathrobes, a visit to the spa, and a personalized invite from the captain to visit the bridge. Princess can also arrange a reception with all the trimmings. Renewals of vows are offered in two packages and are generally performed in a group ceremony by the cruise director. Note that there’s no chapel on board, so all ceremonies take place in a reserved public room.

Looking for…

• Quietest spot: The Library, a cozy, bookshelf-lined room tucked into a hidden cranny outside the show lounge’s balcony, is a great spot for disappearing from the crush.
• Liveliest spot: The Adagio Bar -- head there during Name That Tune fests and karaoke singalongs.
• Best view: Watch the ship’s wake and points beyond from one of Aloha Deck’s two hot tubs.
• Best drink: The Bay Breeze is a refreshing blend of vodka, pineapple juice, and cranberry juice, and a bar staff favorite.
• Best show: Although a well-worn favorite, the Princess singers and dancers inject an infectious amount of pep and humor into their Shake, Rattle, & Roll pop revue.
• Best activity: The casino’s blackjack tournaments offer a great opportunity for observing how people balance cordiality with a fierce competitive nature.

Tips:

• Take away new skills from the Computers@Sea program. The instructor explains the how-to for various software applications in pared-down, easy-to-absorb details. The digital photo editing classes are particularly popular. A few of the courses are complimentary, but most carry a $25 fee.
• Woe to Internet junkies: The Internet services onboard Regal are extremely limited, pricey ($7.50 per 15 minutes), and inconveniently located (next to the purser’s desk); and you have to use their laptops. Far better to check your e-mail at an in-port café or library.
• Expand your cocktail repertoire by sampling the drink of the day -- typically $3.25 and tropical in nature. Teetotalers can indulge in daily special mocktails.
• Learn roulette, face-up blackjack, and other table games at the casino’s complimentary gaming lessons, held within the first few days of the cruise. (Check the Princess Patter daily newsletter for times.)

Spa and salon
Journey down into the lowermost reaches of the ship and you’ll find buried treasure: The Lotus Spa. One of Regal’s most pleasing assets, this Steiner-operated salon and day spa provides all of the treatments necessary for easing long days in port or for adding an extra glow to those sea-breeze–stung cheeks. Yes, you’ll get the pitch for Elemis products, but it’s more of a suggestion than a hard sell. The four private massage rooms lie along a quiet corridor and exude calming scents and sounds. Skin treatments -- always cheaper on port days -- include oxygen-lifting facials, lime and ginger salt glow exfoliation, and Ionithermic detox. Massages come in chakra stone, seaweed, and essential oil flavors. The salon is bright and spacious with numerous stations. Haircuts and colors, manicures and pedicures, and less baroque treatments for men round out the menu.

Fitness areas
Compact and a bit dizzying from the surrounding mirrors, the fitness room is loaded with the latest treadmills, bicycles, elliptical trainers, and weight machines, and with a fat selection of dumbbells. On at-sea days, it seems every passenger under 70 is crowded in there, and the treadmill sign-up sheet fills fast (you can also head for the walking/jogging track on the uppermost deck). Even port days find the room busy early and late. Fitness classes held in the adjoining exercise room are energetic and well-attended, but yoga and Pilates devotees have to contend with people walking over their heads to reach fitness equipment on the other side of the room. Weightlifters will take advantage of open space to pump iron during class, and onlookers often gather at the back of the room for reasons unknown. The ship is in serious need of a dedicated exercise studio. What Regal lacks in workout space is partly made up for in clean and efficient men’s and women’s locker rooms, each with showers, sauna, and steam room.

Heard on the deck (by the fitness class instructor): “Everybody, I want to see buttocks UP!”

Tips:

• Vitality loves company. Join other committed walkers each morning at 8 AM for a mile walk around Sun Deck.
• Free fitness classes on tap include aerobics, step, kick boxing, body conditioning, and stretch and relaxation. Yoga, Pilates, and fitball command a $10 fee each. An unlimited class pass for $30 will pay off for dedicated attendees.
• Beware the daily seminars for weight loss, detox, and cellulite, unless you’re in the market for some pricey snake oil.
• Formal-night salon freebies include makeup sessions and hair and skin consultations.
• There are few end-of-cruise bargains on Regal, but check the Princess Patter daily newsletter for specials.

Shoppers not content with the profusion of in-port shops can spend idle moments (and credit-card dollars) in the ship’s four boutiques. Crown Jewels carries the ritziest unnecessaries, from Swarovski crystal collectibles to Zampiva and Lladró porcelain to Frey Wille enamel jewelry. Find more practical profferings such as name-brand watches, perfumes, jewelry, cosmetics, and sunglasses at Statements. Head one deck down to the Steamer Trunk for finer cruise-oriented clothing for the matronly set. And the Signature Collection sells all those little things you forgot to pack -- tiny packets of sundries compete for wall space with souvenirs, kids’ toys and clothes, snacks, Regal-brand windbreakers, and stacks of duty-free booze and cigs.

Tips:

• Daily sales at 10-20 percent off, racks of reduced-price clothing, and tables of “bargains” like $1.49-an-inch gold-layered chains are all you’ll find in terms of good deals. Unlike some other cruise lines, there are no end-of-cruise blowouts.
• The Princess Patter daily newsletter lists shopping specials, such as saving an extra 15 percent if you buy 12 or more bottles of liquor. (Who has the suitcase space?)
• Along with formal-night portraits and cruise-photo packages, the Photo Gallery sells photo equipment, film processing, digital-image downloads and printing, CD burning, and personalized Christmas cards.
• Visit the purser’s desk if you need to rent a tux. Or, play dress-up at the Steamer Trunk, where you’ll find everything from cummerbunds to evening bags.

There were exactly zero children on our mid-autumn cruise, making the Youth Center and its favored location on Sun Deck a very lonely place. However, come summertime, the kid population and activities ramp up to modest numbers. Separate rooms comprise the Youth Center, along with separate attitudes: Pelicans (3 to 7 years) and Privateers (8 to 12 years) gather in the Fun Zone, while teens bond in Off Limits. Youngsters enjoy supervised crafts, science projects, toys, games, scavenger hunts, afternoon ice cream, and the Cartoon Network. Teens congregate to watch movies and play video games on a big-screen TV, paint T-shirts, have pizza parties, and hold their own disco night. Security is excellent: I.D. is required for any adult to enter the center.

Tips:

• Parents wanting an adults’ night out can take advantage of late-night (10 PM to 1 AM) group babysitting for kids 3-12. Fee: $5 per child, per hour. Princess does not provide private babysitting.
• Families should attend one of the two youth and teen orientation meetings on the first day of the cruise for details on the available programs.
• Worth mentioning: On our cruise, ALL activities listed in the daily Princess Patter were for adults ages 18 and older. That means Regal offers few onboard family experiences.

For 2005, Regal Princess will embark on 15-day Panama Canal cruises during winter, spring, and fall (adding a handful of Mexican Riviera sailings in the autumn months). In summer, she switches to Alaska’s Inside Passage on 10-day roundtrip sailings out of San Francisco. In early 2006, Regal will venture farther afield into the waters off South America and Antarctica.

• Cruise line - Princess
• Ship name - Regal Princess
• Type of cruise - Elegant Resort
• Total cabins - 795
• Private balcony cabins - 184
• Decks - 10
• Total crew - 696
• Passenger capacity - 1590
• Ship size - Large
• Officers nationality - British/Italian
• Year entered service - 1991
• Registry - United Kingdom
• Tonnage - 70,000
• Ship length - 804