The 1,848-passenger Oosterdam (pronounced OH-ster-dam) is the second in Holland America's Vista class of ships: The line's biggest and splashiest ever. Among the distinctions, Oosterdam and predecessor Zuiderdam are outfitted with some "first ever for Holland America" features, including the Windstar Café, a gourmet coffee bar; the Greenhouse Spa's indoor hydrotherapy pool; and The Pinnacle Grill, a Northwest-themed alternative restaurant. Also unique to these ships is a pair of glass elevators, located on both the port and starboard sides of the ship, offering spectacular ocean views.

As the second Vista-class ship, Oosterdam has learned from Zuiderdam's pratfalls. In particular, Oosterdam is, in décor, a much more toned-down ship, with none of the crazy colors and interior designs of her sister ship. But she does try to meld, mostly successfully, Holland America traditions with contemporary amenities: The Explorer's Lounge vs. the Northern Lights Disco, for instance. The Vista class is expecting two more deliveries: Westerdam, scheduled for an April 15 delivery; and an as-yet-unnamed ship, scheduled for completion some time in January 2006.

Oosterdam made her inaugural debut on August 3 and will sail Baltic cruises between London and Copenhagen before moving to the western Mediterranean for a handful of voyages. Following a Big Band-themed transatlantic crossing, the ship will sail seven-day alternating Eastern and Western Caribbean voyages from its Port Everglades (Fort Lauderdale) home port.

Holland America is making much of this ship's high number of value-priced balcony cabins, for which it should be applauded. However, it must be said that the Deluxe Verandah Suites are fabulous and worth the splurge. Highlights include generously sized living areas and bedrooms, high-tech toys like DVD players, bathrooms with twin sinks and a Jacuzzis, and "twice the standard size" balconies with oh-so-comfy chairs and footrests, not to mention a table large enough for dining. The in-cabin data ports are also great. They're available in all cabin categories, though they were not yet connected in some cabins.

Two eating areas have received a lot of attention. The first is the Pinnacle Grill, which is totally new for this class of ship. It looks and feels so much like an intimate, on-land restaurant that you may forget you're still onboard. The Lido, too, has gotten a bit of a redesign with the addition of "courtyard style" seating areas, but we found the layout to be a bit on the choppy side. The Lido features six different themed food stations, in addition to the usual steam tables, offering everything from Asian to Mexican. As is traditional with Holland America ships, Oosterdam offers an assigned seating dining experience, early and late, in the two-tiered Vista Dining Room.

In addition, this ship absolutely lives up to Holland America's reputation for having the best room service at sea.

Passengers enter Oosterdam on Main Deck through the three-level atrium, which is fairly low key by most cruise ship standards. As such, it feels more like you're checking into a small hotel than a 1,848-passenger cruise ship. Lots of glass and unobstructed sight lines in public rooms lining the promenade decks really do incorporate sea and light into the ship's interior. However, the layout is choppy and disorienting, particularly on Promenade Deck, from the shopping arcade through the well-equipped Internet café, the little-noticed Java Café, and the Erasmus Library. Art work, a Holland America specialty, was intriguing and beautiful but never jarring or distracting.

Many favorite public areas make an apperance on Oosterdam. The Ocean Bar has gotten a bit of a facelift, but it's still cozy and romantic. The Crow's Nest offers the best overall vantage point around, and it now has a bank of leather recliners facing the glass-walled front of the ship, just perfect for that afternoon-at-sea snooze. For experienced Holland America cruisers, tea (or after-dinner drinks) in the Explorer's Lounge feels so familiar that it was like coming home. The Lido Pool area, with a retractable magradome, is colorful and whimsical; however, the futuristically styled Piano Bar, in a garish gray and black color scheme, seemed a mismatch to those of us who associate piano bars with torch songs and romance.

New public areas include the all-enclosed hydrotherapy pool, which lies between the Greenhouse Spa and the Lido Pool. It's magical at night when you can operate push button window coverings painted with scenic murals. An interesting sunbathing nook is located on Deck 10's "observation terrace," complete with teak steamer chairs and plump cushions.

This isn't really a kid-friendly ship. Frankly, we were surprised at how small and ill-equipped the Club HAL facility was.

Holland America Line has recently changed its "tipping not required" policy. Beginning in April 2004, Holland America will add cabin and wait staff gratuities of $10 per person, per day to all shipboard accounts. Passengers may adjust these gratuities at any time during the cruise by contacting the front desk. In addition, a 15 percent service charge will be added to each beverage order.

• Cruise line - Holland America
• Ship name - Oosterdam
• Type of cruise - Elegant
• Passenger capacity - 1848
• Square feet per passenger - 46
• Decks - 11
• Total cabins - 924
• Private balcony cabins - 623
• Year entered service - 2003
• Tonnage - 85000
• Ship size - Large
• Registry - Netherlands
• Ship length - 951

Copyright 2005, The Independent Traveler, Inc. All rights reserved.