Writer John Griffin based this independent review on his 7-night Alaska cruise departing from Seattle, Washington.

Launched in 2000 as one of the flagships of the Holland America fleet, Amsterdam is the ne plus ultra of Holland America Line, exuding elegance, tradition, and style. The onboard atmosphere is cozy and distinctively European, with dark wood finishes, richly colored fabrics and carpets, and Dutch and Indonesian antiquities around every corner. This is a meticulously cared-for ship, with a charming and genuinely friendly crew.

Why Amsterdam?

• Bigger isn’t always better: Smaller than the newest seagoing mega-resorts, Amsterdam combines large-ship conveniences with small-ship service.
• Friendly, friendlier, friendliest: A relatively small passenger complement is conducive to making new acquaintances, and meeting new friends in public areas.
• Superb staff: Cabins are immaculately cleaned twice a day but cabin stewards rarely intrude. Bartenders and cocktail waitresses remember your favorite cocktail after serving you once. Stewards and waiters never avoid saying hello, and most enjoy doing little extras to bring passengers comfort and ease.

Who should go
Those who have a sense of adventure yet desire the elegance of a traditional cruise will be at ease here. The ship offers a more traditional sailing experience while taking passengers to exotic ports in Hawaii, South America, the Far East, and Alaska. Although the average guest age is in the late 50s, families with school-age children will also feel welcome, as Club HAL’s trained staff provide active day camp type programs for various age groups.

Who shouldn’t go
There are no best legs contests or beer-chugging parties on Holland America, so the party-hardy crowd might become bored. With two well-enforced formal nights on 7-night cruises, those who do not care to dress for the evening may feel out of place (though the casual Lido restaurant is open 24/7 -- a good option for those who’d rather dress down every night). Families with very young children may feel neglected as Club HAL programs are for school-age children only, and there are few if any provisions for infants and toddlers.

Heard on the deck: “Seems like if it doesn’t start on time, it starts early! Can’t be late to anything or you’ll miss it…”

Hits and misses

• Don’t miss: High tea -- fragrant Russian spiced tea, yummy bite-sized pastries, and open-faced finger sandwiches are accompanied by a Gypsy-esque string quartet. It’s high tea with an Eastern European twist.
• Best part of the ship: Lower Promenade’s magnificently maintained teak wraparound deck lets passengers experience the sound of the ocean, the mist from the sea, and the ever-changing views. Passengers sit back in classic teak steamer chairs, reading a book or simply enjoying the views.
• Best experience: The Indonesian and Filipino crew shows aren’t to be missed. Although the production quality can seem homespun at times, these amateurs take their limited personal time to rehearse their native dances and original songs and are pleased to share them. Be sure to stick around for the “Planting Rice” dance near the end of the show.
• Best shipboard activities: For those who have a passion for good food or just an interest in seeing where dinner is made, the kitchen tour will amaze and delight. Not only is it an education in space management, but such a spotless environment is a testament to Dutch cleanliness and order. And no kitchen tour would be complete without samples -- fresh-from-the-oven cookies and warm nibblies are there for you to enjoy.
• Needs improvement: The Welcome Aboard show showcases energetic and enthusiastic singers and dancers, but it’s hampered by a dated “Boy Band” routine.
• Activities to skip: The art auction -- pieces are generally no better than what you can find at home for less, and there’s no free shipping. Also skip the shore talks, which largely consist of “your shipboard shopping consultant” reminding you ad nauseum of the omni-present diamond and gemstone retailers who set up shop across the street from gangways in every port town. Blank stares may follow inquiries of where you might find authentic native handicrafts.

Heard on the deck (during the kitchen tour): “How on earth do they make 5,000 meals a day in such a small space?”

How to meet the captain
Everyone is invited to attend the Captain’s Gala on the first formal night, where one is part of a seemingly endless “grip and grin” reception line. For a more intimate tête-à-tête with the captain, you’ll need to book one of 52 suites for a prized invitation to the Suite Passengers’ Cocktail Reception. There is also a VIP Cocktail Party where the guest list is a bit more objective -- one could be a friend or family member of a crewman, a Mariner (repeat cruiser) who has attended a large number of prior cruises, or a person of some renown or note (generally the folks who will be invited to dine at his table on formal nights). Toward the end of the cruise, there is also a Mariner’s Society reception where the captain will bestow various awards to repeat passengers.

Heard on the deck (during the Mariner’s Society reception): “Yesterday, we had lunch with a couple that has over 570 days on Holland America. They told us that they don’t feel like packing tomorrow, so they’re staying onboard for the next cruise!”

Although there are fewer dining venues than found on many megaships, food is exceptional, and the typical seven-day cruise offers over 500 separate dishes from which to choose. Dinner entrées are available in half-portions, so those who are undecided or wish to try two dishes needn’t feel wasteful or compelled to overindulge.

La Fontaine Dining Room
Five-course dinners are served at four separate times at this elegant double-decked dining room at the ship’s stern. Ringed with windows affording spectacular views of the passing scenery, topped by a stained glass flower patterned ceiling, and boasting a minstrel gallery flanked by dual staircases, this is the spot to make a grand entrance. Heart-conscious, low-carb, and vegetarian selections are on the menu and clearly marked for diners with special needs. Don’t miss the “Yum-Yum Man” at the exit -- he dispenses after-dinner mints, dates, and candied ginger to cleanse the palate and soothe tummies unaccustomed to such gastronomic richness. La Fontaine is also open for breakfast and lunch, though most passengers bypass daytime meals here for the faster, more convenient Lido.

Heard on the deck: “I mentioned to my waiter that I loved Caesar salad and he had it made especially for me for the rest of the cruise!”

Pinnacle Grill
This intimate gilded rococo space offers top-drawer service from an attentive Eastern European staff. Tables are set with Bvlgari china, elegant Riedel stemware, and top quality Frette linens. Begin with a bite of salmon tartar and end with exceptional handmade chocolate truffles accompanied by Italian-roast coffee -- and don’t be afraid to ask for extras to take back to your cabin. Various cuts of aged Sterling Silver premium cuts of beef satisfy any size appetite. Other popular entrées include frenched Lamb chops and cedar plank cooked seafood. Pinnacle Grill charges a mere $20 per person.

Other dining options

• Lido Café: From pancakes, omelets, and freshly squeezed orange juice to pizzas, pastas, soups, and stir-fry, the Lido is the place to go when you have the munchies (try the wonderful Thai stir-fry). Those who don’t feel like dressing up for dinner can get the same entrées as found on the main dining room’s evening menu, served on tables with white tablecloths and fresh flowers. The Lido is also the venue for the Midnight Dessert Extravaganza -- expect a long wait for the dripping chocolate decadence.
• The Grill: A hamburger and taco bar in the amidships pool area will satisfy those fast-food cravings.
• Room service: Edibles are available 24 hours a day, all within the comfort of your cabin. Suite passengers can enjoy the full breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus, whereas others can choose from more basic items like cheeseburgers, Caesar salad, and French onion soup. Special touches include sandwiches with the crusts cut off, just like mom made.

Best dining

• Dish: Although all entrées are picture perfect in their presentation, dishes with the least complexity -- prime rib, roast turkey, seared salmon, stewed lamb shank -- are the most enjoyable.
• Dessert: The Bread Pudding is not to be missed! That said, the chocolate volcano cake in the Pinnacle Grill is universally agreed upon among cognoscenti as the ultimate HAL dessert.
• Restaurant: If a high-caliber gourmet experience is what you’re after, the Pinnacle Grill is the place to find yourself at dinner. It does not disappoint.

How to…

• Get a table for two: Be sure to request a table for two when booking. Although there are several to choose from in the main dining room, they are limited in number and tend to book quickly. If they're no longer available at booking, visit the maître d’ shortly after boarding.
• Celebrate a birthday/anniversary: Call HAL ship services prior to sailing, or visit the maître d’ on embarkation day, and a special cake can be delivered to your dinner table on that special night. The wait staff will also circle the table and sing you a happy, if charmingly off-key, birthday.
• Change seating: Check in with the maître d’ well before the second night's dinner seating. After that, nothing’s guaranteed.
• Dress for formal night: The mix is split between tuxedos and suit and tie for gentlemen; ladies are clad in smart cocktail dresses and evening gowns, with the occasional exquisite Japanese kimono. Typically, the longer the cruise, the more tuxedos and gowns. Likewise for later seatings: The later the seating, the more formal the attire.
• Dress for casual night: Casual nights are country-club casual with sports jackets and open collar shirts for men, casual dresses and pantsuits for ladies. Although jeans are “forbidden” in the dining room, one can dress them up with a dress shirt, blazer, and loafers for an appropriate dinner costume. Jeans with T-shirts, tennis shoes, and flip-flops on any evening other than the first (when it is not unacceptable to dine in your travel clothes, if necessary) will garner a stern frown from the maître d’.

Tips:

• Budget-conscious sailors will book a table in the Pinnacle for the first night, when the dining fee is reduced from $20 to $10 per person.
• Try ordering breakfast in your cabin at least one morning. You’ll have nearly all the same selections as found in the Lido and delivery can be requested in 15-minute increments from 6 to 10 AM, and it’s almost always delivered on time.

Measuring in at almost 200 square feet each, standard cabins are some of the roomiest at sea. Most have sitting areas and plenty of storage, and all but the smallest have loveseats that open to extra beds. Bathrooms are efficient and colorfully tiled with sturdy grab bars everywhere for rough seas. All showers are fitted with Grohe massage showerheads. HAL recently added deluxe terry-lined waffle weave bathrobes and extra large fluffy Egyptian cotton towels to every cabin. Suites have new Sealy euro-top mattresses and 250 thread count cotton sheets; these will be standard in every cabin after the next major drydock in spring 2005.

Passengers who upgrade to minisuites will get minibars, leather sofas (some sofabeds), and teak-decked balconies with at least two patio chairs and a small table. Deluxe suites include leather sofabeds for two, comfy lounge chairs, and twice the balcony space as found in minisuites. But when nothing but the best will do, the two Penthouse suites have everything to placate the most discerning traveler. Over 1,100 square feet of luxury awaits, with all needs attended to by personal butlers. For private entertaining, you’ll find separate living and dining rooms seating eight, a private butler’s pantry, and a marble-lined guest bathroom. Bedrooms include a pair of flat-screen TVs, and marble bathrooms are fitted with roomy whirlpool tubs, separate showers, and twin sinks. Also included are wardrobe cabinets and a separate room with toilet, bidet, and another sink. Adorned with antiques and encompassing a private balcony, this is Holland America luxury at its finest.

Heard on the deck: “I called the desk to have someone bring ice. When the steward arrived, I picked up the ice bucket to give it to him and suddenly realized it was already full!”

Cabins for guests with disabilities
Amsterdam has over 20 cabins specially designed for guests with disabilities. They range from inside cabins to Deluxe balcony suites.

Tips:

• Need even more storage? Look under the foot of the bed for an extra drawer behind the bed skirt.
• The 10 Deluxe suites at the stern lack bathtubs.

The majority of public lounges are located on Upper Promenade Deck. One can spend an entire evening here gliding from dinner to shows to cocktails, stopping for shopping and gambling in between. Elaborate and fragrant floral displays fill niches and top tables in most public areas; even small cocktail tables in the bars and lounges are enriched by flowers in elegant little Rosenthal vases. The center of the action is the atrium, highlighted by a two-story clock of sorts. This strangely picturesque steel-geared and cloisonné contraption, called the Astrolabe, fills the open space top to bottom, ringing bells at six o’clock every evening.

Bars, lounges, and casino
Just outside the upper dining room is the Explorers Lounge, a quiet spot with its own string ensemble playing at high tea in the afternoons and during drinks after dinner. Farther forward, the Amstel Café and Rembrandt Lounge merge for old-fashioned singalongs and games of Name That Tune. The Sports Bar is an oddball mishmash of central seating around a large flat-screen TV, flanked on one side by the clang-clang of the casino and by the bling-bling of the jewelry shop on the other. The Ocean Bar located off the atrium draws a convivial crowd for pre-dinner cocktails, warm hors d’oeuvres, and dancing to live jazz music. On the port side, the Erasmus Library is a cozy spot filled with books, magazines, and writing desks. Paperback books can be exchanged in the adjacent Half Moon where bridge aficionados will be pleased to find many like-minded card players at nice, if not exactly elegant, tables. Opposite the atrium is the Java Internet Café and Java Bar at the entrance to the Wajang Theatre. Stop by and order an espresso or pick up a bag of freshly popped popcorn before entering the Hollywood-deco style cinema to view a recently released movie from wide plush velvet seats.

For a top-of-the-world view, the Crow’s Nest is where you’ll want to be. Put your feet up in the leather recliners, spread out on the roomy banquets, or invent your own cocktail at the circular bar. Evenings lose the view but gain the action, with a lively dance band early and a deejay after midnight.

Shore excursions
Excursions run the gambit, from the typical bus tours to more adventurous pursuits like snorkeling, exploring the ruins of ancient civilizations, and taking a helicopter to the tops of glaciers. Excursions can be booked before the cruise (a good idea if you have a particular excursion you’d like to take) or during the cruise. Holland America also specializes in packages where one can spend up to a week exploring Alaska via private-car trains, tour buses, and resorts in Denali National Park before or after a cruise. Longer and more exotic itineraries often have longer tours available where a group might leave the ship to fly elsewhere, and then rejoin the cruise two to three days later at another port.

Shows
Enthusiastic and talented, Amsterdam’s entertainers do two shows a night for weeks at a time. With star-quality vocals, frequent costume changes, and elaborate choreography -- often on a stage that’s moving faster than their dancing feet -- these kids are great! Two other popular shows are the crew show and the passenger show, The Great Pretenders. Magicians and comedians round out the talent on various evenings. Don’t go expecting thought-challenging plots, dramatic scenes, political humor, or disappearing elephants; think classic Ed Sullivan-esque fare and you’ll get the picture.

Heard on the deck (discussing that night's comedy show): “I was laughing so hard I thought I was going to throw up.”

Weddings and vow renewals
Captains are no longer legally able to perform wedding ceremonies, but passengers can prearrange for a vow renewal ceremony for $99 (contact HAL ship services for details). The fortunate couple will be invited to a celebratory reception where the captain officiates the ceremony, typically for two to five couples per cruise. Couples receive wedding cake, champagne, and a commemorative photograph of the “re-newlyweds” posing with the captain.

Looking for…

• Quietest spot: Find yourself a cozy and quiet deckchair on Deck 6 or 7 aft. These out-of-the-way spots have only a slight breeze and are the perfect spot to gaze over the wake of the ship.
• Liveliest spot: If you wanna “get down,” go up to the Crow’s Nest -- the place to be after the last show. A deejay spins the tunes after midnight and fellow shipboard rowdies keep company at the circular bar until last call at 2 AM.
• Most popular activity: The wraparound Lower Promenade Deck is popular for running, walking, and lazing the day away on comfy steamer chairs.
• Best view: On a clear night, you can see forever from the Observation Deck above the Crow’s Nest. The stars appear to be just beyond your grasp, and if you’re on an Alaskan itinerary, you may be fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights.
• Best show: The Great Pretenders is a hilarious ‘50s themed onstage romp for volunteer passengers who have more chutzpah than talent! Expect to see your fellow travelers in wigs and wacky costumes lip-synching to famous tunes enacted with tongue-in-cheek silliness. Club HAL gets into the act too, so young masters and misses can have their moments in the spotlight as well.
• Best drink: The “Signature of Excellence” program brings brand new bar menus to all lounges, and the best is the Explorers Lounge “Flaming Spanish Coffee” -- blue rum flames and orange cinnamon sparks precede a deliciously entertaining after-dinner cocktail.

Tips:

• Erasmus Library is staffed from 9 AM until 5 PM. During these times, books can be signed out and daily quizzes can be taken, with winners receiving HAL key chains and luggage tags.
• Most shows have a no-photography policy. One exception is the passenger-participated The Great Pretenders. Don’t forget to bring your video camera to this show!

Spa and salon
Although service is prompt, the therapy rooms and massage experience in the Steiner-run spa are a bit clinical and overpriced. Music is neither restive nor relaxing, featuring strangely vigorous Italian works by Berlioz and Verdi. With the upcoming completion of the “Signature of Excellence” program, the spa will be converted into a Greenhouse Spa and Salon, similar to what is currently on HAL’s new Vista-class ships, and will include a new hydro pool and thermal suites.

Fitness areas
The Ocean Spa and Gym offers well-maintained treadmills, life cycles, stair climbers, weight machines, and free weights. Towel service is available in both room temperature and refreshingly chilled. One can attend well-run Pilates, yoga, and aerobics classes for an additional $11 per class, but the hosted morning power walk is free. It’s held on the teak Lower Promenade Deck -- 3½ times around equals a mile.

Heard on the deck: “They don’t offer spin classes -- I guess they still think most folks on this boat are too old.”

In general, the shopping experience is incongruous with the upscale HAL experience. Three separate “boutiques” are divided by sitting areas surrounding the atrium. One shop is devoted to a strange mix of liquor, over-the-counter pharmaceuticals, magazines, and personal CD players. Another shop contains a wide range of items from glass, crystal, and jade tchotchkes to a tacky selection of cut-price watches, costume jewelry, and “gold by the yard.” The final shop is the best, selling the ever-popular “Dam Ship” and HAL logo ware, along with warm fleeces (in Alaska) and swimwear to replace the suit you forgot to pack.

Perched on Sports Deck like a glass-walled tree house, the Sky Room is the clubhouse for Club HAL. Outfitted with colorful computers and topographically designed rugs, this nautical-themed space is the place to find your kids if you suddenly realize that they’ve gone missing for a few hours. Trained staff members specialize in keeping young minds occupied and young hands busy. Arts and crafts -- tie dying, paper airplane engineering, and ship building from found objects -- are common activities, as are pizza parties, candy bar bingo, and impromptu on-deck basketball tournaments. Club HAL members also won’t want to miss the farewell pajama dance party on the last night of the cruise. With the completion of the “Signature of Excellence” program, the Club HAL facilities will be expanded to accommodate three different age groups, including toddlers.

From the glacial fjords of Alaska to the icebergs of the Antarctic, from the festivals of Rio to the exoticism of the Far East, Amsterdam specializes in exotic itineraries including one week in Alaska, 15 days in Hawaii, 39 days in South America (and the Antarctic), and 62 days circling the Pacific.

• Cruise line - Holland America
• Ship name - Amsterdam
• Type of cruise - Elegant
• Passenger capacity - 1380
• Private balcony cabins - 172
• Total cabins - 690
• Decks - 10
• Total crew - 647
• Year entered service - 2000
• Tonnage - 61000
• Officers nationality - Dutch/English
• Ship size - Large
• Registry - Netherlands
• Ship length - 780